Eskifjörður

Eskifjörður and its surrounds are a fabulous microcosm of the east, with attractions that neatly sum up the region’s appeal. History and nature work their magic here, and you can investigate towering mountains, nature reserves, deserted black beaches, time-stands-still history, and surprising geology.  

As you approach Eskifjörður along Route 92, the road skirts around the base of the majestic mountain Hólmatindur, the pride and joy of the locals. It stands at 985 meters and in its shadow is the Hólmanes nature reserve, home to walking trails that weave between rock formations. East of town is another special reserve, Helgustaðanáma, named for the important quarry where Icelandic spar crystals were once mined. 

In town, it’s easy to find evidence of the fishing and trading history of the area. Eskifjörður became an official trading post in 1789 and has been a commercial center ever since. A visit to the Maritime Museum creates context, then a visit to Randulfssjóhús adds personal insight into the era. This is an old seafarers lodge where you can see fishermen quarters unchanged since 1890; today the building cleverly blends maritime exhibitions with local seafood flavors in its
restaurant. If the weather is good, here you can rent a boat and fishing rods and take to the fjord waters for your own angling experience. 

Highlights: 

Walk: among the rock formations at Hólmanes, with birds for company and possible sightings of whales offshore. 

Taste: be brave and try fermented shark and dried fish at Randulfssjóhús. 

Soak: with the locals at the modern swimming pool, with water slides and hot pots to enjoy.

Road-trip: if you have a 4-wheel-drive, take the rough Road 954 east to Vöðlavík, a deserted cove with a black sandy beach wedged between mountains.